Step into the echoes of Famagusta, where the sands of time mingle with the tales of a city that once danced to the rhythms of the rich and famous. From the ancient whispers of its Venetian walls to the vibrant echoes of luxury that once defined its shores, Famagusta holds a narrative woven with the threads of opulence, tragedy, and enduring spirit. This narrative journey unveils how the tides of history and human endeavors have sculpted a landscape that, while haunted by its past splendor, continues to whisper stories of what was and what might have been. Join us as we traverse the corridors of time in Famagusta, exploring the relics of its golden age and the quiet resilience that characterizes its present.
Sometimes, it is shocking to read how someone narrowly avoids a disaster, only to be led in a completely different direction in life. Consider the survivors of a plane crash who live simply because they missed the flight due to a severe and seemingly overwhelming set of circumstances. Or an emergency responder who switches shifts with a colleague to help them attend a significant event, only to find out that it was precisely at that time when they would have been in the firing line, a decision that made the difference between life and death. Unfortunately, bad things happen to good people all the time, and in many instances, it is nothing more than the timing of cosmic tumblers snapping into place.
Our beautiful island of Cyprus has seen it all throughout the centuries. The mountains have stood tall, overseeing the lands below and witnessing the rise and fall of civilizations, each shift marked by cosmic tumblers clicking into place. These old, wise stones have remained silent and steadfast, providing a comfort that some might mistake for a lack of emotional attachment. The Troodos Mountains are akin to the parents of children in pain, enduring in a world where tears find no purchase. I believe their bravery and loyalty have served as a bulwark for our ancestors, shielding them from hunger, disease, the harsh elements of nature, and the numerous wars that have reshaped our corner of the world more times than one can count.
When the city of Famagusta was in its heyday, the world’s rich and famous would flock to its beaches, spending their holidays at the grand hotels and resorts. It probably seemed like a summer day that might never end. However, as reality often teaches us, everything—whether perceived as good or bad—must come to an end, often shaped by the perspectives of its observers. Some may dwell on the bitterness of change, missing the opportunities for future joys while searching for remnants of a past that will never return. Like our island, we must seek out the next glorious sunrises, recognizing that they may be just a few miles from where the darkest clouds had once passed.
Famagusta became that ghost—the one who was the life of the party and the crown jewel of the world’s high life. During the 1970s, it was the scene of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, sizzling hotter than any press exposés, alongside the best-kept secrets of the world’s royal families and rare sightings of some of the most exciting and talented people ever to gather in one place. Varosha was a luxury city that boasted more stars in the sky than any one place was thought capable of accommodating—yet it worked, despite the often demanding nature of its high-end tourists. Famagusta served as the city of dreams, and with Burton and Taylor spending time spanning three decades there, it could well have been designated the accepted luxury resort for all things customarily unaccepted.
Around 275 BC, what we now know as Famagusta began as a humble fishing village. Following a severe earthquake that heavily damaged the glorious city of Salamis, Famagusta’s role became increasingly important—a sanctuary for those fleeing the Arab invasion. By the 13th century, it had evolved into a full-scale town, encircled by walls designed to protect its vital areas, enhancing its security and wealth. Famagusta quickly became one of the wealthiest cities in Christendom, mirroring the pride of a child who believes they possess the brightest and smartest puppies. This pride in their superior arts and culture fostered a reputation of high society that propelled the village to great prominence.
Forget the fact that wealth and intellect are often used to gauge the ordinary rather than to identify the exceptional, and it becomes clear that those with a penchant for ostentation attract others of similar inclinations. Dismiss the city’s humble beginnings as a fishing town; instead, envision and promote it as a luxury enclave for successful artists and free thinkers who thrive on trading elaborate goods and the seeds of grand ideas.
After being seized by Genoa in the late 14th century and subsequently by Venice in the following century, Famagusta had established itself as a wealthy hub for ship owners and merchants living luxuriously. Significant wealth was funneled into constructing spectacular churches and investing in the palace, the square, and the latest inventions of the era. By the 16th century, Famagusta had become one of the most formidable bastions against the Turks. It stood as the last stronghold in Venetian Cyprus during the siege of 1570-1571, proving extremely challenging for the Ottoman forces, who lost over 50,000 men before they could capture and reorganize the city. The conquerors divided up luxury homes among their leaders.
The occupation led to a merchant shortage due to the removal of Latin commercial interests and the expulsion of Greek Cypriots, necessitating a resettlement of the walled city to address the population decline. Modifications were made to the existing structures to incorporate bathhouses and meet the needs of the new settlers. The imported villagers were quickly integrated, bringing their skills and crafts to maintain the prosperity of the newly shaped community, thus blending into the walled city’s culture with an unexpectedly welcoming charm.
The exquisite Venetian walls and bridges that adorned Cyprus, particularly around Famagusta, seemed to herald an era of unrivaled success, invariably linked to an elevated appreciation for the finer aspects of life. It seemed as though with each new influx of silk, the city’s reputation and cultural ethos flourished, unveiling ever more appealing and accessible options. Famagusta was renowned for its unique ‘x-factor’ in personality and charm, making it a favored destination for many.
Travelers often cherish those places that resonate deeply with them, and in Cyprus, Famagusta stands out as a perennial favorite among a wealth of stunning locales. Beyond its natural beauty, Famagusta’s capacity for delivering high-quality entertainment ensures its enduring popularity, drawing visitors back season after season for new and thrilling experiences. People generally gravitate towards familiarity, often resistant to change, finding comfort in the reliability of the city’s offerings. The meticulous preservation and elegance of Famagusta’s Venetian architecture—its grand buildings, walls, and bridges—instil a deep sense of trust and satisfaction, continually reinforcing its appeal to both new and returning visitors.
With the advent of British rule at the start of the 1900s, a new wave of confidence in technology spurred the expansion of essential infrastructure, better connecting Cyprus to the rest of the world. The ornate artifacts and rich archeological remnants of Venetian rule set the stage for a burgeoning tourist industry. Famagusta, with its distinctive charm, became easily accessible and highly attractive to global travelers. This curiosity peaked as people sought unique experiences; Famagusta’s luxurious offerings and strategic locale were unmatched, making it a prime destination that perfectly met the era’s demand for exclusivity and novelty.
After independence in 1960, Famagusta emerged as the epitome of luxury travel. Cyprus’s tourism sector evolved uniquely and rapidly, becoming increasingly popular. Hotels and resorts thrived, charging premium rates that significantly boosted profit margins, especially when hosting large groups. Famagusta boasted extensive high-end accommodations, offering luxury travel on a scale perhaps unprecedented globally. In Varosha, the city’s most luxurious district, the sales of high-end clothing, premium tobacco, and other luxury goods accounted for nearly 20% of the island’s retail volume. The exorbitant cost of luxury travel meant that most international resort destinations could not compete with Famagusta, which offered an abundant inventory of top-tier lodging.
In Cyprus, nearly half of the total accommodation for tourists was located in the most prestigious area of the country, Varosha. This luxury destination was designed to cater easily to the most elite travelers—jet-setters, royalty, and celebrities. The availability of world-class shopping and the opportunity to vacation alongside top movie stars only enhanced its appeal. Even if the natural beauty of the island’s beaches and waters was only marginally better than other global destinations, the combination of luxurious amenities and easy access—thanks to infrastructure improvements by the British—created a paradise with ample room for indulgence. The easy availability of gourmet foods, high fashion, and cutting-edge technology fostered an unprecedented culture of opulence, setting the stage for a spectacle of luxury that the world had seldom seen.
Within less than a decade, independent Cyprus had attracted a cast of the global elite that made any Hollywood movie seem like an infomercial. Imagine a scenario where a small group of the world’s most beloved celebrities frequents the same holiday spot. As this elite crowd burgeoned annually in Famagusta, the catalyst for this rapid transformation became apparent. Resorts like Varosha had transformed into a Disneyland for the wealthy and famous, a playground where the fantasies of the ultra-rich materialized amidst the backdrop of Mediterranean luxury.
The transformation of Famagusta into a ghost town mirrored a game of musical chairs played on an idyllic day in paradise. The rules were simple: scramble to find a seat as soon as the music stops. With each round, a chair was removed, heightening the competition until only one remained for a frantic dash. In Varosha, however, the music ceased unexpectedly, and there were no chairs left at all. The game ended abruptly and decisively, leaving an eerie silence in its wake.
Snow evokes in us a sense of childlike wonder. It paints white over the scenery, using a thick brush and wide strokes. The snowy blanket snuggles everything and puts life itself to a cozy nap. That blanket is woven out of many snowflakes, each of which is unique, landing right where it did for a reason. We know the reason but can’t explain it except — it’s there to create a winter wonderland
The Troodos mountains are a sight to behold in the winter, when snow covers the peaks and valleys like a white sheet. The road winds through the hills, providing stunning views at every turn. If you’re looking for an escape to a winter wonderland, take a drive through the Troodos mountains!
Mighty trees proudly jut out from under their snowy makeover and nod their heads as we drive along. Their entourage of shrubs looks like silhouettes of a crowd, standing by with dignified grace. They cherish the snow too and invite you to come out of the car and join in on the fun.
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